Norfolk Cley Marshes Regional Focus UK.
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At a time of changing climates and rising sea levels, evolution
is alive and well, not least it seems in the thinking on the new
European legislation which touches on them.
Take the
case of a stretch of coastal marsh up on the northern rim of Norfolk.
This marsh, about five kilometres by three quarters, stretches east
from Cley-next-the-Sea to Salthouse and is bounded to the south
by the A149 coast road and to the north by the shingle bank which
keeps the sea at bay. It includes areas of summer grazing and a
large reed bed.
The reed grows on the landward side of the marsh, away from the saline
pools just behind the bank, and is watered by run-off from the higher
ground beyond the road. It is cut annually (single wale) and produces
six or seven thousand bundles of reed each winter. Local thatchers
drive in to buy it on-site.
But there is a problem, for this is the friable East Anglia coast,
laid down a mere 10-20,000 years ago and still sufficiently fragile
to be eaten continually by wave action. Add in global warming, already
evidenced by increasing wave height, and the prospects for this marsh
and its reed bed begin to look distinctly short term. The shingle
bank has for years had to be maintained by winter bulldozing but that
bulldozing produces an unnatural profile which takes the full force
of the waves and is constantly being degraded. Now the sea is shaping
up to move onto the marsh. Once or twice in the last decade, it has
come over the bank, damaging the grazing and lapping at the houses
along the A149. While reed can tolerate salinity for a while, it too
would eventually succumb if the change became permanent.
As it happens, such change would only be restoring the natural order
of things because this was once nearly all salt marsh, its present
nature having developed and consolidated a few hundred years ago,
partly in response to land-grabbing measures by local gentry who wanted
more grazing.
But there is a further natural element in the equation. Part of this
marsh, including the reed bed, is within the Norfolk Wildlife Trust’s
Cley Marshes nature reserve, a name which probably resonates more
than any other among UK bird watchers. Cley Marshes, indeed, was the
starting point for the formation of Norfolk Wildlife Trust, the first
in the country, in 1926. As the first landfall after a cold North
Sea crossing, it gets an almost indecent crop of rare bird visitors.

The
management of the reed bed is thus less a commercial reed producing
enterprise than habitat maintenance for rare bird species including
the bearded tit, marsh harrier and, most critically, the bittern.
The problem for them is that salt water kills their food.
The bittern’s case is particularly serious because this member
of the heron family which was common enough to load the dinner tables
of medieval Norfolk now clings to the edge of survival in England.
Only 30 pairs were reckoned to be resident in the country in 2001.
Its prospects aren’t helped in an ever more crowded and developed
country by its secretive nature and firm preference for reed bed habitat
through which it can walk and feed on fish and amphibians without
having to take wing and or even be seen. It now finds itself - in
the UK anyway - with only about 5000 ha to choose from, half of that
in East Anglia.
There were two pairs of bitterns breeding at Cley in the late 1980s
and early ‘90s which, at the time, was about 10% of the British
breeding population, but none nested there in 1996 after the last
flood though broods were raised in the following four years before
another blank in 2001.
But something significant did happen in 2001. In the autumn, a new
female turned up wearing a radio tag on its leg. The RSPB’s
Bittern Project team, summoned with its tracking equipment, identified
it as a bird which had fledged in the previous July at the RSPB Minsmere
reserve in Suffolk. The bird then began moving regularly between Minsmere
and Cley.

At first, that bittern seemed to change the game a bit because if
the reed bed was capable of attracting new bitterns as well as hosting
local birds, it put even more emphasis on the weighty piece of European
legislation known as the Habitats Directive. In particular, it highlighted
the provision which puts governments under obligation to replace any
lost important habitat with ‘compensation habitats’. If
the reed bed - or, in this case, any significant chunk of that marsh,
all of which has considerable habitat importance - were to be lost,
it would have to be replaced elsewhere.
As it happens, with several wildlife - not to mention coastal defence
- considerations in the equation long before the new bittern turned
up, there was already a radical plan afoot. It involved a bit of ‘managed
retreat’ with the building of a new clay bank, 3m high and 4km
long, inland from the shingle bank. The latter would have been left
to find its own level which would eventually have allowed waves occasionally
to come over the top onto the intervening area where their energy
would have been mostly absorbed.
The bank - comprising 300,000 cubic metres of clay, all of it dug
on site - would have cut through NWT’s Cley Marshes and Salthouse
reserves and intervening ownerships. It would have followed a line
roughly along the demarcation between the freshwater marsh and the
more saline ground nearer the shingle and to that extent, loss or
change of habitat would have been minimised although the saline areas,
themselves of considerable importance, would also have changed as
the sea encroached more

But
the two year project, carried out by the Environment Agency, would
have brought massive temporary disruption to wildlife, not to mention
the reed cutting although the reed bed would have eventually got bigger
with a water depth ideal for bitterns if not necessarily for reed
cutters.
More particularly, the scheme would have cost £5m and would
have involved replacement of the freshwater habitat under the 26 hectare
footprint of the new bank. With the extent of eventual change to that
marsh habitat still essentially conjectural, they were figures that
in this case stimulated some particularly rapid evolutionary thinking
on the Directive’s implications. It was, after all, a lot of
taxpayer’s money.
So another idea with a probable cost of less than a fifth of that
amount is now being pursued. Instead of a new bank, it involves the
creation of 40ha of new reedbed - enough to support two pairs of bittern
- at another location because while the perambulations of the female
bittern showed that the marsh could attract new birds, it also showed
that the species is willing to explore. The contingency of the newly
created site should hopefully ensure no net loss of habitat and mitigate
the Directive’s demands substantially if not satisfy them completely.
With the 26 ha footprint of the previously proposed bank having to
be replaced anyway under that original idea, the main saving is the
not inconsiderable cost of a new bank.
The plan is that bulldozing of the shingle will eventually cease after
that bank has been nudged towards a more natural profile and new drainage
arrangements at the western end of the marsh will allow salt water
from more frequent over-topping to get away more quickly into Blakeney
Harbour. Damage to grazing and reed habitat should thus be minimised
and the freshwater would be restocked with fish as necessary so that
bittern could still feed. Reed cutting will thus continue uninterrupted
unless and until tidal inundation dictates otherwise.
This ‘middle way’ is presently accompanied by talk of
roadside embankments to protect the two villages at some time in the
future if necessary. But it shows that while the Habitats Directive
may have loomed larger once a new bittern turned up, spending £5
million on grounds which so far are largely without precedent is still
something about which the government seems to be twice shy.